Wednesday, 8 July 2015

Day 116 - Moose Mountain

I'm in New Hampshire!

I've actually been in the Granite State for about 30 hours now. As always, there is a certain rush of energy and excitement that comes with being in a new state. But it seems even more so with this one. All of the states before, they sort of ran into each other naturally. The end of New Jersey was pretty similar to the start of New York, then New York and Connecticut, then Connecticut and Massachusetts, and so on. But now I'm at the start of the Whites. Mount Moosilauke is a mere 30 miles away, and I know that it and the mountains that follow it will be unlike any I have done yet.

If you just look at the first 15 miles of New Hampshire, they are similar to Vermont. Small, steep hills. And a totally cool town! The Norwich/Hanover town combo might have been the best trail towns yet. They're super funky, with all types of people living and working there. They're also a lot of fun. And, most importantly, they're friendly! I was amazed; upon entering Norwich, I came across 4 houses with trail magic on the road walk. There's an official list of trail angels too, which directs you to the kind folks who will let you crash at their house! In this town, thru-hikers might as well be rock stars.

I didn't end up staying at a trail angel's place, though. My friend MoJo got a hotel and let me take the second bed. Score! It was nice to be centrally located. We (me MoJo and Tate) ate at several places (my favorite was Lou's Diner), and just explored the town, which owes a lot of its character to Dartmouth College. Being in a college setting for the first time in months was quite the trip! Dartmouth has a sweet green, and me and Tate got some good frisbee tossing in.

Today was back to the trail, but not before sleeping in and waiting out the rain. I stopped at the Co-op for resupply, which had a remarkable selection. I took a chance on another peanut butter replacement (did I mention I'm sick of PB?). Unfortunately, sesame tahini is not what I expected. Oh well, live and learn. Hopefully the strange taste of tahini will be offset by the mountain views.

Live free or die!

-Scribbles (aka Ted)
8:44 p.m. 7/8/2015

Monday, 6 July 2015

Day 114 - West Hartford

This will be my last post from the state of Vermont. What a week and change it's been here. I really enjoyed the Green Mountains. The climbs, views, and most of all the people have been awesome. Today was a great example of all that.

I woke up with the view. Sleeping atop the Lookout was fricken incredible. The stars and moon were out, it was nice and cool, and the sunrise had me up at 4:30 this morning. The Whites were much more recognizeable against the rising sun. Then, once it was up, I was looking down into cloud-filled valleys.

Next were the climbs. Per usual, today had tons of ups and downs. Perhaps it's because it was hot, or perhaps it's because I've done like three straight half-Juricks, but I got tired really fast. No big climbs, but a lot of little steep ones. Reminiscent of New York. I did 19 miles today but I swear it felt more like 30.

And finally, the people. Like I said, I was dog tired 19 miles in, and luckily enough for me, 19 miles put me in the town of West Hartford, Vermont. West Hartford is the home of Randy, trail angel extraoridinaire. I got into town (which consists of about a half a dozen houses along a stretch of Route 14), and there he was, ringing a bell and yelling at me to come on over. I did, and man am I glad!

Randy totally hooked me up. Chicken and pasta salad, cold sodas and beer, a bed to sleep on, and most importantly great company. This isn't a hostel, but that's what Randy says he's working toward. In the meantime, it's just a totally dope and completely unadvertised place to hang out! I spent all evening talking with Randy and a fellow thru-hiker Joe, as well as the various local friends and family who have come to visit. This place was the perfect pick-me-up after a day that left my legs tired and my feet sore.

I only have about 10 miles left in the Green Mountain State, and I promise you they will not be easy. I just want to hang out here! But it's onward, New Hampshire awaits!

- Scribbles (aka Ted)
10:20 p.m. 7/6/2025

Day 113 - The Lookout

Today has been amazing. It started at Killington, watching a cloud whiteout turn into an incredible view. And it ended here, 24 miles later at a platform atop a cabin called "The Lookout".

Sleeping in the tent was great, and it was worth it. There wasn't any view from Killington at first, all clouds. But me and Tate waited and ate breakfast and the cloud disappeared around 8:30. Literally in a second it went from whiteout to view. We didn't start hiking until 9 and made it to town at 1. Tate had some packages so we split there. At Killington town, the Long Trail splits from the AT and goes north toward Mount Mansfield, while the AT goes east toward the Whites. I have to say I quite enjoyed my 100 mile foray into the Long Trail, as wet and muddy as it was!

Despite having already done 10 miles into Killington, that was where my day really began. I got into serious hiking mode, going 15 miles in 5 hours! My destination was here, The Lookout. I had heard it was a great view, and figured I'd shoot for sunset. I got here at 7:30 and have the place all to myself! Basically, it's a mountain with a cabin on top. There's not much of a view from the ground, but the cabin has a platform on top of it that allows you to see for miles. Being alone here tonight, I've decided to put last night behind me and try another cowboy camp up here.

But let me describe the view. To the northwest is the Green Mountains that the AT misses, including Mount Mansfield, Vermont's highest point. To the southwest is Killington Mountain, where I started today. Amazingly, I have never ended a day with a view of where I started the day. The result is breathtaking. Killington is waaaaay far away. I can hardly discern the radio towers on top of it! It's hard to believe I was right near those towers this morning.

But what's really great about this view is to the east. There, way out on the horizon, is a dark squiggle through the sky that outlines the peaks of the furthest mountain range: the Whites. I am so excited to finally have them looming before me. It'll take a few days, but I'm almost there. I can see them!

Anyway, the 25 miler was totally worth it. After being in a big ole hiker bubble yesterday, I'm on my own again. And tonight I can see stars. No rain this time!

-Scribbles (aka Ted)
10:00 p.m. 7/5/2015

Saturday, 4 July 2015

Day 112 - Killington Mountain

Alright, where to start? It's been a super fun, tiring, and above all busy two days! It all started a half mile before Manchester, where I set camp up as the last rain fell on Thursday night. Since then, the weather has been perfect.
On Friday I went into Manchester planning to quickly resupply, as well as get my new gear and shoes, and then head back out and camp on Bromley Mountain. Well, I was just getting ready to hitch back out of town when my Mom called me and, guess what?! She was coming to visit! It ended up being an awesome evening with Mom. We got a room at the Palmer House, which has croquet and a jacuzzi! I ended my day having hiked a half mile.
The next day we dropped off her bike at Mad Tom Notch and hiked 5.5 miles over Bromley. Part of the climb was up a sunny ski slope, covered in wildflowers. It was a great view, and even better with all the snacks we brought up. And here's where it really gets good. Because of my slowed pace over the last month, I have drifted all the way back to my friends from Virginia and earlier. They all showed up at Bromley. Cliffhanger, Ox, Hot Pants, Forrest, and Tate of course. It's been a while since I've seen these guys.
Me and Mom hiked down to the bike, and it was goodbye again. Man, though, did I love the suprise meet-up! After she left, I hiked with Ox, Cliffhanger and Hot Pants for the rest of the day. We hiked 16 more miles from 2 to 8 pm, and ended the day with bratwursts over the fire. Not bad!
So that was yesterday. Today has been more miles. I hiked another 24 and ended Independence Day at Killington Mountain, 4200 feet tall. The day was punctuated of course by Killington, but also the Whistle Stop, a restaurant where we spent 2.5 hours eating and playing cards. I finally had to remove myself from the game and get back on the trail, or else I still might be there!

There was also some super steep terrain towards the end of the day. The climb out of Clarendon Gorge was intense, and made worse by the burger in my belly. And then of course Killington had its vertical points.

But right now hiking feels good. And the company is great. I'm in the biggest bubble I've been in since Delaware Water Gap, with a good 15 thru-hikers here at the Killington Shelter. We watched fireworks for much of the night from all over, every direction. Enjoying moments like this in a group makes it just a little better. Tomorrow I'll do my last Vermont resupply. Hanover is only 2 days away!

Oh, and a sidenote. This update comes from a tent! First time in a tent for me on the AT. I was going to cowboy camp at the peak of Killington, but then it started drizzling. Thank goodness I have a buddy like Tate, who has a two person tent and is willing to share. Here's to a dry rest of the night!

-Scribbles (AKA Ted)
10:44 p.m. 7/4/2015

Thursday, 2 July 2015

Ted's Progress Map: Week 15

Ted's Week 15 Progress Map (a little delayed at the blogging crew was hiking last weekend in the Mahoosuc Range. Sorry guys!)


Wednesday, 1 July 2015

Day 109 - Stratton Mountain

There's an old folk tune who's chorus goes "Oh, the dreadful wind and rain." I think Jerry Garcia does a version. Anyway, all I can say is whoever wrote it would have loved to hike with me today! The wind and rain were in full effect. 
I summitted Stratton Mountain in the morning, after waiting out a thunderstorm in my hammock. Luckily, the rain was not too bad up there. But there was no view. Stratton Mountain is where James Taylor had the idea to build the Long Trail more than a hundred years ago. Then, it is where Benton McKaye had the idea for what became the Appalachian Trail. Pretty cool if you ask me! The only idea I had at Stratton, however, was to knock out miles and get warm and dry again. 
The day proceeded with periods of sun, followed by thunderstorms and heavy rain, followed by drizzle, clouds, and back to sun. It was weird. And of course, I was in the midst of a thunderstorm when I set up camp.\ 
But rain today doesn't bother me, you know why? The weather reports I've heard say blue skies and sun for the next week. That's enough time to get to New Hampshire! 
Tomorrow I'll do a short day, only into and out of the town of Manchester for resupply. I also have to hit up the outfitter where my third and final pair of shoes is waiting. And, as of two days ago, I have a broken water bladder and trekking pole that need to be replaced. I'm ready to be on two poles again, it really makes a difference!

-Scribbles (aka Ted)
8:22 p.m. 7/1/2015