Day 46 - 30 Miles!

Another couple of busy busy days. Let's see, yesterday saw me waking up after a long day fueled by trail magic at New Hope church. That's right. It's amazing, the days are really blending together! 

I started yesterday a good 35 miles outside of Pearisburg. In my mind I told myself "17, 17 and then go into town on the 30th (tomorrow)." Well, as you can see, I did not listen to what my mind was telling me! The weather was perfect, I felt great, I kept a slow and steady pace, and the terrain was not treacherous. Put it all together, and you get a feeling that anything is possible. It's like a runner's high, but with hiking. I felt this all day, and when I got to Wapiti Shelter, where I thought I might camp, I just made dinner and kept right on going. It started to get late, and the sun was sinking low, but I still felt the hiker's high, so I headlamp'd up and on I went. I stopped to watch the sunset, ate more snacks (including most of what I had set aside for the next day), and then it was decided. I figured that I would never feel as good to go tomorrow as I did today, so why stop? I kept hiking as long as I enjoyed it. In the end, I made it all the way along a ridge in Jefferson National Forest to a rocky lookout, not more than 5 miles from Pearisburg! It was 10:30 when I laid out my tarp, Thermarest and sleeping bag and fell asleep under the stars. I had walked 30 miles. 

I still can't fathom the fact that I walked 30 miles yesterday, and I especially can't believe how easy it was! There have been several days where I've struggled to make 15, yet yesterday was not as physically or mentally challenging as those. I will admit, I was sore this morning, but I wasn't dead tired. It's crazy how things work out. I will also say that it feels great to know that I am capable of 30 mile days. It makes me feel like a real AT thru-hiker! But, for the time being, my thirst for high mileage is quenched and I think I will be taking it easy for a bit. 

Night hiking was fun too. I didn't picture myself as much of a night hiker coming into the trail. I figured maybe on really hot days, when doing it would keep me cool, but not now when the weather is bearable. But man, it was fun! Or at least a nice reprieve from the usual day hiking. It was a little scary, and I think it would be more enjoyable in a group. There were some spots where the white blazes were augmented by a nail with reflective paint. I assume that this was specifically for night hikers. The problem for me was that from a distance, the reflective nails looked just like the reflective bear eyes from last week!

Today I made it to Pearisburg, a day ahead of schedule. Pearisburg's a nice little town, and the highlight is definitely the hostel. It's behind a Catholic church on the far edge of town. It was a good two miles to get here! But the distance means less hikers and more peace and quiet. Plus the hostel is in an old farmhouse, with a wood burning stove, big front porch, and a loft to sleep in. The fridge was stocked with food by the caretakers, so that was nice too! The other highlight, and pretty much the only other thing I did today besides come to the hostel, was the Lucky Star China Buffet. 6 plates of food and 3 cups of Hershey's ice cream, gone in a flash of silverware! 

Tomorrow I think I'll take my time leaving town. It's been an eventful 48 hours, and I think some slowing down is in order.

- Scribbles (aka Ted)
8:37 p.m. 4/29/2015

Day 44 - Chestnut Knob and Trail Magic

I want to say that the last few days have been good, but that's getting repetitive by now. The last few days have been average! 

A few nights ago it just about rained buckets on me, and the thunder was so loud it woke me up once. But I stayed dry, so it's safe to say I'm getting better at setting up the hammock since Roan. Then yesterday was a cloudy, cold, and windy march through some pretty nondescript terrain. The one big mountain, Chestnut Knob, might have been pretty if not for the fog that didn't let me see more than 100 feet ahead of me! The weather must have motivated me or something, because I pushed out about 21 miles. 

Now today I'm moving on. This morning I got picked up by the fine folks at the New Hope Union Church in Bastian Virginia. They serve breakfast to hikers every Monday. I had no idea, it was completely random! And it was good too. My favorite was the homefries casserole, which is homefries topped with cream of chicken soup, cheese, and corn flakes, put in the oven. Man I just about ate the whole casserole tin! 

Patrick, the guy who picked me up and dropped me off, told me that he liked that the magic was not well known, despite its organization. It certainly adds to the value when you don't know anything about it beforehand! 

I feel like I could hike a marathon right now.

Scribbles (aka Ted)
2:27 p.m. 4/27/2015

Week 6 Progresss Map

Weeks 5 and 6 Progress Map, and the territory to the north for the week to come!

(By now, yes, Ted is past Groseclose, 

but we are charting his progress week by week, 

and as of Friday and the close of the week 

he hadn't quite yet gotten that far.)

Day 43 - Blunders & Bear

Now I'm eating lunch in Groseclose Virginia at The Barn. Sitting near me is John Ellison, the writer of "Some Kind of Wonderful". How cool is that!? 

Last night was crazy! But first allow me to fill you in on my latest blunders...I think I've been getting a little too comfortable with the hiking life. It's making me careless! Y'all remember I lost a tent stake. Well, I followed that up with my spork and now, my crocs! The spork is a mystery. It has disappeared into oblivion. The crocs, I knew right where I had left them as soon as I realized they were missing. At the shower of Partnership Shelter. Oh well. After completing the trifecta of losing things, I think I am back down to earth. No more carelessness! It sure is humbling. 

Now, last night! It was exciting for sure. I woke up at about 1:30 and I heard what sounded like footsteps down the hill. Crunching leaves and snapping sticks. The trail wasn't down the hill, though, it was up the hill. And who would be bushwacking at 1:30? So I sat up, realizing that what I heard must be an animal. The steps were getting closer. They were heavy; whatever was making them was at least human sized. A bear! I was a bit frightened, so I turned on my headlamp and pointed it in the direction of the sound. All I saw was trees, but amongst the trees were two little dots of light. The bears eyes were reflecting the light. I couldn't see the bear, but he must have been 30 yards away or so. After about 10 minutes of watching the eyes move about, I dropped the headlamp, clapped my hands and let out a "whoop!" Then the bear ran away! Man, it was exciting and scary too.

-Ted
12:34 p.m. 4/25/2015

Day 41 - Grayson Highlands

What a last few days it's been. Lots to fill you in on, that's for sure. 

First off, the Grayson Highlands were spectacular! It's impossible to pick a favorite spot on the trail, but they are in the running for sure. I thought that I was transported to African Savannah yesterday. It was unlike any land I've ever been to! The wind was whipping, probably a steady 40 with gusts over 50. But the sun was shining and it was warm, so the wind only made every step exciting. At some points, I was leaning at what felt like a 45 degree angle to keep myself upright, and then if the wind died down for a moment, I'd nearly fall over! The day was a blur, to be honest. Every turn had beauty like none other. I loved it! 

That wasn't all, however. At Wise Shelter toward the end of the day I ran into a Boy Scout troop from Hopkinton, Mass. I took an extra long break there, and was treated to a game of setback, my favorite card game, and Miso soup! It was nice to be with some fellow New Englanders...and the food wasn't half bad either! 

This morning I woke up to completely clear skies (I haven't seen a cloud all day) more intense wind, and bitter cold. It was probably in the 20s, as I crossed several frozen creeks early in the day. The cold and wind combined for a brutal first 3 miles above treeline at 8AM.

I had actually sent about half my cold weather gear home in Damascus, only holding onto my winter hat, leggings, and cold sleeping bag. Luckily, those articles combined with my windbreaker, fleece, and long pants were sufficient. The only part of me that suffered were my hands. I had to put my poles on my pack and bury my hands in my sleeves to keep them warm! But it was not too cold to take a few pictures of the wild ponies before I left the Grayson Highlands.  

Interestingly, the ponies are not actually "wild." They were introduced to the area to keep the highlands bald and the views amazing. 

I sure hope this good weather keeps up. Hiking is so much easier! Oh, that's the other thing. I've been making really good miles. Yesterday I hit 500! Wow! It must be the good food in my maildrop.

-Ted

4:47 p.m. 4/23/2015

Day 39 - Yesterday's Zero Day

Oh what a difference a zero day makes! I got my ice cream fix yesterday, and then followed that up with another heap of food. I went through my bounce box, my food drop, and reorganized for the trail ahead. I played cards with some other hikers, practiced guitar, and got a great nights sleep. It was a total reset. 

I guess I didn't realize this, but I was really tired when I got into town. Not sleepy tired or muscles tired, but mentally tired. Hiking day after day takes its toll, especially when its through bad weather, as much of it was. Taking a break was a mental reset, too. 

In the last few days before I got to Damascus, hiking had kind of become this annoying thing I did between snack breaks and sleep. Now I feel refreshed. Hiking is what I'm doing, and the snack breaks are little interruptions. It's a very good feeling. 

Today I've already made it 10 miles, and to be honest I don't know how far I'll go. I feel good now, maybe it'll be another 10... Oh and that's the other thing; the weather is gorgeous today! 

The next bit of trail promises to be pretty. The Grayson Highlands...famous for wild ponies!

-Ted

4/21/2015

Day 38 - No Cell Service in Damascus

Hope y'all got the pictures! Damascus is a cute little town. It's strange though, hikers are so pervasive, as opposed to Erwin or even Hot Springs, where we were present, but just guests of the "real" residents. This place just feels like any point on the trail!

I'm glad to be in Virginia. Three whole states - Georgia, North Carolina, and Tennessee. Done, done, and done! Virginia will carry me through at least another whole month. In all, there's 550 miles; about 1/4 of the trail in this one state! The walk in was rainy, of course. Rain has become a theme in the last few weeks, ever since that nice afternoon at Beauty Spot really. I don't mind it that much. I stay pretty dry, the towns are close enough that there's time to get a break and air out wet clothes. But what makes the rain annoying, for lack of a better word, is that it makes places that are supposedly beautiful (see the Roan Highlands) into grey foggy blurs that I race through as fast as I can to get to cover. It's a little disappointing and...annoying! August, a chronic thru-hiker who has completed several thrus, attempts one about every other year, and is a wealth of experience and information, told me that this year is on track to be the wettest one he's ever hiked through! I'm staying positive, though. At least I'm in good health, and I'm making good time, and I'm in Damascus, the mecca of the Appalachian Trail! And the rain will clear up eventually, and everything will be a glorious green, right...?


Today is my first official zero. I had planned to stay outside town last night, per usual, and hike in this morning. However, the terrain was easy-peasy, and I was at my planned campsite by 1:30. On top of that, it was pouring. I decided that my half-day would be better spent in town than sitting in the rain. I'm staying at "The Place," a church-run hostel. Last night was fun playing guitar with other hikers, and tonight will be my first night sleeping in the same place since I left home! I'm eating tons of food, and really enjoying the zero. The library here is awesome. It's brand-new, the people are friendly, and the computers are fast enough to upload pictures.

Tonight will be more eating and then tomorrow I hope to get a bright and early start and get back out on the road. Expect another town-related update tomorrow. I'm off to find some ice-cream....

- Ted
12:59 pm 4/20/2015

Day 38 Photos Here!

Week 5 Progress Map

Here is Ted's progress moving up the Appalachian Mountain Chain over the last 5 weeks!

Day 35 - Kincora in Tennessee

Last night was a good one at Kincora.

Bob Peoples, the longtime owner, is an amazing guy. I have to agree with what I was told, that he's the "heart of the AT." Here's a guy that runs a hostel, with bunk space for plenty, laundry, showers, everything. He'll drive you into town, to a doctor, whatever you need. He is very active in trailwork with Tennessee-Eastman, and each year runs the "Hardcore Work Weekend," where he brings thru-hikers to work on the trail and feeds them for the the weekend. He told me that this year the crew would be completing all of the work necessary in the Tennessee region. It was a 20 year plan, but is done in 15. On top of all that, what is most amazing is that Bob expects nothing in return for all of his service. He has a donation box, which visitors are more than happy to contribute to, but that's it. He referred to the whole thing as "a hobby." Its inspiring!

Anyway Bob is a very interesting fellow, and not only that, he's a Bay-stater! He's originally from Medford, and his wife (who has since passed) was born in Worcester. When I told Bob that I was also from Worcester, he told me that it must be true since I can pronounce it.

My stay at Kincora was well worth it. Now I get to enjoy all the trailwork done by Bob and his crews over the years as I finish up Tennessee!

-Ted
12:18 pm 4/17/2015

Moving right along the trail here.

I made it to the Big Laurel Wilderness in Cherokee National Forest today, at just about mile 437. A few things of note... 

I saw a giant snake today, the first one I've seen yet. This thing was about 4.5 feet long, and at it's middle probably a golf ball in diameter! It was black with a white underside. Anyone know the species?

I also saw a similarly extraordinary waterfall today; Laurel Falls. It was huge! It's still only the second best waterfall I've ever seen after Mill Pond Falls, although it's kind of unfair to compare it to the USA's smallest natural waterfall.

Anyway, what was really neat was that the trail snaked right next to the river it was part of. At one point I had a rushing river to my left, a wall of rock to my right, and only about 18 inches of trail to walk on in between. And speaking of, the river was a great medium to see the work of Bob Peoples in the form of three wooden bridges complete with masoned stone trestles.

But what really stuck out about today was its summer-ness. It must have been all that rain that drenched me three days ago. Everything seemed green today, it was warm, and in the first half of the day I was graced with the sound of a far off lawn-mower. Seriously though, I've noticed more and more wildflowers, green underbrush, and now even buds on the trees. Spring is certainly in the air, and summer not too far off!

-Ted
6:51 pm 4/17/2015

More Photos from 4/17 Here!

Day 34 - We're Back!

The last time I updated I was at Beauty Spot, and 50+ miles and a few rainy, cold days later, I can update y'all again! A whole lot has happened recently, I don't know where to start...

I woke up at Beauty Spot and it was all clouds and wind, no sunrise.

But, there's something about that kind of weather that makes the hiking easy, and before too long I had gone 14 miles.

I decided to eat an early dinner of spaghetti and cheese, and that extra energy pushed me all the way to the 20 mile mark for the first time! Some people do their first 20 out of the Smokies, some into town to sleep in a bed. Not me, boy. My first one had to be to a windy campsite halfway up Roan Mountain!

I kind of regret that 20. Near the top, I could sense that rain was approaching, it was late, and it was windy and foggy. For whatever reason though, I was still going. Before I reached camp, at a particularly cold rock outcropping, my mind was just messing with me. "This is so hard," I was thinking, "How are you going to do this for another 4 months!?" Thoughts of Maine popped into my head. It was scary, terrifying. That's not the way to hike the Appalachian Trail.

That night it poured and winded like you wouldn't believe. The rain came right up under my tarp and by the morning I was completely soaked. Everything, the hammock, my sleeping bag, my clothes. Not good. The only thing I had going for me was that in doing a 20 miler day the day before, I could afford a short one.

I decided to make it a 9 to Overmountain Shelter. This must have been the hardest day. On the way up Roan Mountain, it poured and I got soaked, then on the way down, the rain let up but I was walking through about an inch and a half of water. Then I hit the Roan Highlands, where the wind just blasted me with more rain. The shelter couldn't have come soon enough!

Things got better from there, however.  

 

Overmountain Shelter is an old barn, converted for hiker use. When I got there, the sun came out just enough to see a magnificent view of the valley and for my stuff to dry. How lucky is that? I ended up getting a good nights sleep as the rain pounded on the roof. Nice and dry.

OK, then yesterday. Another tough one that turned out well. So well, I believe it may have been one of my best on the trail.


It certainly was a day of highs and lows. The day started slowly, since it was monsooning outside. I ate a hot breakfast of more spaghetti and got everything packed and it was on. Me vs. The Rain. It's much easier to hike in the rain when you know you're stuff is safe and dry in your pack. But dang, yesterday started rough.

I went over two mountains, Little Hump and Big Hump. They are both 5000+ feet, and completely exposed balds. No trees, just grass. The trail goes straight over them, and it became Me vs. Rain & Mud. Plus it was super super windy, so it was Me vs. Rain, Wind, & Mud. I resorted to singing to get me over these mountains in the elements. I was just belting every song I could think of! I finally got over the mountains and into the cover of trees, but the trouble wasn't over yet.


Just as I was about to leave North Carolina for good, she gave me a parting gift of a slip, fall, and bruised shin on some rocks. Good riddance North Carolina!

But then the day got better.

I'm in Tennessee now, and I warmed right up once I got to camp. The rain let up, and today I woke up and the sun was out! I'm dry, and tonight I'm headed to the Kincora Hiking Hostel for a shower and a resupply in Hampton. Damascus is only 3 days away! The last few days were tough, but looky here, I got through 'em and I'm not too worse for wear.

-Ted
2:00 pm 4/16/2015

Day 31 4/13 Photos Here!
&
Day 32 4/14 Photos Here!
&
Day 33 4/15 Photos Here!
&
Day 34 4/16 Photos Here!

Week 4 Progress Map & Week 5 Map

Here is where Ted is headed this week!
Toward Damascus, Virginia!

AND... Here is how far Ted has come over the past 4 weeks!

Ever onward and northward!

Day 30 - Erwin, TN

I've walked about 4 miles, I found a sunny spot and this seems like a good time to give a recap of my Erwin experience. 

Everything just worked out perfect yesterday. I got down to the Nolichucky River by 8am, and decided it was early enough to walk the 3 miles into town. But only after about a quarter mile, I was picked up by the second pickup truck that went by! Dave and his dog Sassy brought me right downtown, and wished me well on the rest of the trip. 

It was still only about 8:30, and on a Saturday it seemed nothing was open. I asked a guy outside a restaurant if there was any place I could get a bite and hang out at this hour. Turns out that guy was Lou, the owner of the Hawg n Dawg, the BBQ joint in town. Lou was awesome. He told me I was welcome to sit outside his restaurant to charge my phone, and he just happened to have some extra tickets to the Kiwanis Club pancake breakfast that just happened to be at the Senior Center a block away! I spent the morning gorging myself on pancakes and bacon and mingling with the locals. It was great!

The rest of the day was good, too. I spent some time at the public library - a converted railroad station, I went back to Hawg n Dawg and ate a half-rack of ribs, and then I was picked up and given a ride back to the trail by the daughter of Miss Janet (I forgot her name :/).  For those who don't know, Miss Janet is sort of the Queen of trail angels, so meeting her daughter was very cool.

On my way out of town, I ran into Alice and Paul, a couple of longtime trail enthusiasts who gave me some tips for the miles to come.

Today the sun is still shining, its warm, and I've got the whole day. I'm loving the trail right now!

-Ted
10:15 am 4/12/2015

I'm at a point called "Beauty Spot, 10 miles out of Erwin. I got here at about 12:30 and decided that it would be a good spot to camp. The view lives up to its name. And besides, I have tomorrow and the next day and the next day to make up the 5 more miles I had planned to do! And the next day...

My first spontaneous half-day was real nice. I basically sat at this point- a grassy bald overlooking Erwin and into Tennessee on one side and the North Carolina hills on the other- all afternoon. Many hikers passed through and took breaks with me, and some decided to cowboy camp alongside me under the stars.

I spent my time reading and napping and above all NOT hiking! just hope I can snap out of the last two days and get back to my 15ers without much difficulty. It shouldn't be a problem.

Tonight promises to be a magnificent sunset over the town, and I hope tomorrow's sunrise is good too. Here's to a night with no rain!

Ted
7:30 p.m. 4/12/2015

Day 29 Photos Here!
&
Day 30 Photos Here!

Day 28 - Headed to Erwin

After another 18 mile day, I am primed for my next resupply; Erwin, Tennessee.  

I thought a lot about what "adventure" was today. This hike could be considered an adventure, but I think its only secondary to the adventure that brought me to here. I know that the white blazes will lead me to Mount Katahdin, but I could not have imagined when I first had the idea for the hike it would come to fruition. Then again, I suppose the adventure of the hike is internal, as you discover more about yourself.  

Not much to report on today; no notable moments really. I would like to correct myself from an earlier post. I had said that Mount Cammerer was my last 5000 foot mountain until New Hampshire. Wrong! I didn't realize this but there are quite a few 5000 footers and even a couple 6000 footers in Tennessee, which I'll be climbing in the coming weeks.  

Anyway, I am ready for a big ol' nero day complete with lots of food tomorrow. I also am planning on toning down the intensity of my days until Damascus. I think no more than 15 miles per sounds about right. 

One more thing: I almost forgot! My trusty journal, which has been recording everything that doesn't make it to the blog, is all out of paper. I am amazed and glad that I've had so much to write. The more memories and stories recorded the better! At this rate, I'll need about 7 journals...

-Ted
5:45 p.m. 4/10/2015

Photos from 4/10 Day 28 are Here!

Day 27 - Flint Mountain

Today was a John Lennon kind of day. I woke up with "Strawberry Fields" in my head for no apparent reason, and now I'm at camp humming "Watching the Wheels," which I suppose is a more fitting song for the trip. In all I covered another 18 miles. I'm feeling great, and the weather really cooperated today. Even though there were no amazing views or interesting bits of terrain, today was just solid. There were some giant oak trees as I went over Flint Mountain, as big as the trees I saw in the Smokies. It would probably take three people to hug the circumference of some of them!

There was also a point today when I could have sworn the wind was turning the leaves at my feet since they were rustling. But there was no wind! When I stopped, I realized that the sound was coming from thousands of little baby crickets, who were understandably scared out of their wits and hopping all around me. 

Let's see, I also happened upon some trail magic from Paul near the end of the day. Paul thru-hiked in 2007 and he was serving up scrambled eggs and hash-browns out the back of his pickup truck. Very good! Probably the most interesting point of the day is that, besides Paul, I saw and talked to exactly ONE other person. Weird. My friend Corey wonders if I'm going crazy...I hope not!

-Ted
6:52 p.m. 4/9/2015

Day 27 04/09 Photos Here!

Day 26 - 300 Miles

Finally I can update y'all. I'm just short of the 300 mile mark in North Carolinessee. Even though in my mind I feel like I'm in NC, I have to remember that the trail ducks in between the two states here.

Hot Springs was awesome, and I left with a full belly. My favorite restaurant of the hike is now Take Out, where I ordered a "Flood Stage". Its a 1/2 pound burger with a grilled cheese for the top bun and a BLT for the bottom. Mmm!

Yesterday was my first T-storm hike, with occasional lightning flashes and rumbles of thunder. I had the honor of walking with Fungus, a 4th grader on vacation with his family. We had an awesome conversation for about 30 minutes. It turns out he is going to be in the Air Force when he grows up, then be an engineer for the Navy, and then open a law firm with his friend Kip. He also told me he is "muy muy fluente" in Spanish. It sure was a fun hike!

Today has been hot and humid, complete with flies buzzing around my head all day. But, at least it hasn't rained. This morning was pretty funky; I woke up in fog, then climbed out of it and had a view of the valley, completely covered in clouds! I'm hoping to make it another 6 miles or so before packing it in for the night. Happy 300! Woo!

-Ted
2:35 p.m. 4/8/2015

Ok, camp is set up, my stuff is dry, I'm in the hammock and free from the incessant bugs! I ended up going 17 miles today, and I'm camped just north of Big Butt Mountain (yes, that's the name) at mile 304.

There was something I was thinking about today, which I'd like to explore a little bit and see what y'all think. It happened this morning. As I said, I woke up surrounded by fog. Unfortunately for me, I had angled my tarp a little shallow overnight and the fog created condensation on the mesh of my hammock, which of course dripped onto my sleeping bag and made it all wet. So the day started on a low note for sure. I sorta had a cloud hanging over my head as I started the miles. It lasted until I got up to about 3200 feet and I broke through the fog and looked down on the valley I had come out of and basically saw a sea of white.

Why was it, I wondered, that we project our feelings onto the world? I was in a bad mood in the morning, and as far as I was concerned the whole world was too. Nothing was going to get better, because the whole world was foggy and cloudy and my stuff would always be wet. That's the thought process at least. But it's just not true, it's a false perception! At 3200 feet, I was in a new world, looking at the world I had just come from. It was a stark reminder that the present is not the best indicator of the future. Changes are inevitable, and burying yourself in the current situation is unproductive and unfair.

Anyway, that was my little soliloquy for the morning. I found it interesting. Maybe its just me.

- Ted
7:17 p.m. 4/8/2015

Day 26 4/08 Photos Here!

Day 24 - Hot Springs

Hello! I am in Hot Springs North Carolina today, and enjoying every bit of it. Last night I hiked everything but the last quarter mile or so before the town, and camped within seeing, hearing, and probably throwing distance of the first house. I also was gifted the best trail magic so far. I had (and have) zero service here in town, and yesterday being Easter, I was pretty bummed out that I would not even be able to say hello to my family. My mom had told me that my grandmother, in particular, had been worried. Luckily, I crossed trails with Jolly Roger, who let me use his cell phone (Verizon, duh) and talk with my grandparents at the Easter celebration back in Newington Connecticut. Thank you very, very much Jolly Roger, and my grandmother thanks you too!


Last night I slept great, even with the sounds of cars and trains passing by not too far. And today has been another busy one. Hot Springs is the first true "Trail town." No need to hitch a ride here; the AT follows right down Bridge Street, the town's main drag. Even though it is a town of less than 1,000, there are thru-hikers everywhere and whereverI go I see familiar faces. Some friends I haven't seen since Georgia are here, including Seinfeld and Solo. Tonight will be glorious; I am sleeping in a bed! I got a room at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn, a historic building that has been an inn since 1947. My room is the exact same room that EARL SHAFFER slept in in 1948!!! In case you did not know, his 1948 stay was part of the first ever thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. History! I also showered for the second time since I started, and did laundry for the first.


I spent much of the morning at the Hiker Ridge Ministries, a wonderful little building where you can converse with other hikers and get your picture taken. Look them up on facebook! Queen Diva, the woman who was running it when I arrived, cooked up some of the best banana muffins I've ever had. Which, speaking of...


Man oh man, did I have some hiker hunger when I got here! For breakfast, three scrambled eggs with spinach, hash browns, bacon, wheat toast and two pancakes. For lunch, the BBQ special at the local Mexican-American restaurant, complete with sauteed vegetables, refried beans, rice and toast. Next up is dinner. I had planned to eat at Elmer's, which offers organic vegeterian breakfasts and dinners to guests, but due to a busy day at the inn (a tree is being cut down), Elmer does not have time to cook. I think I will get breakfast there tomorrow instead. For dinner, a local tavern offers an 18oz. burger. Sounds good to me! There is also a place at the edge of town that sells a 3/4 pound burger with grilled cheeses for buns. That might be lunch tomorrow before I set out again. Its been a simply great day.


Unfortunately, the computer I am uploading my photos through is a bit slower than the last one. I apologize, but I will not be able to share every picture I've taken in the past week and a half, only a select few. After today, I am off to the tail end of North Carolina. My next resupply is in Erwin, Tennessee, and then Hampton, TN, and then Virginia! I find it difficult to believe that when I send my bounce-box to its next location tomorrow, I'll be writing "VA" on the label. I'm only about two weeks away from the unofficial quarter-done mark of the hike. Wow.


One last thing; I bought a newspaper today and BIG shout out to the Wisconsin basketball team for knocking off Kentucky!!! Now just beat Duke and you will become my second favorite team! It is so weird this year not watching ANY college ball. Usually, and my friends will attest to this, that is what I do all March. Tonight I think I will go to the local tavern, maybe buy my first drink as a 21 year old, and watch Wisky beat Duke. Go Badgers!

- Ted
5:38 p.m. 4/6/2015

Day 23 - Max Patch

Good morning!
I love early morning starts, it's barely 9 am and already I've hiked about 4 miles. Hiking seems to be easiest around now, and hardest around 5 in the afternoon. 

Anyway, yesterday may have been numero uno for me on the trail so far. It started off a little shaky. It was one of those times where you're not sure if you're too hot or too cold, but its soooo inconvenient to stop, take off the pack, put the fleece away, pack back up, and start again. So I ended up kinda forcing myself to the top of Snowbird Mountain a little cold and a little hungry. But at the top, I layered back up, had a big granola snack, and stretched. Plus I met a family from South Carolina who were out on their ATVs for the day (as you can see, I'm no longer in a National Park!). From there, the day was great. It was nice, slow, and steady. And it included Max Patch, one of the most awesome, unique places I've been yet. It is a 4000 foot mountain that is completely bald: just grass! It's like being on a farm, but you have a tremendous 360 degree view. Just amazing. I got some trail magic from a group at the top. Blue Deer told me that they do it every year the first weekend in April. Thanks guys! And Purple Blaze, if you're reading this I said hello to Big Tex, Geared Up, and Reroute for you. Those three all thru-hiked last year and Geared Up is hiking the ECT (Florida to Newfoundland) this year. It was cold last night, but it is beautiful today. Happy Easter everybody.

- Ted
9:09 a.m. 4/5/2015

Day 22 Photos 4/04 Here! : http://tedatgwlt.blogspot.com/p/day-22-404.html

Weeks 1-3 Progress Map

Ted's Progress Weeks 1-3.
On to Hot Springs!

Rain Tonight After Davenport Gap

I did enjoy Davenport Gap! Not much to say besides I'm out of the park. Max Patch tomorrow, short day Sunday, then a NERO and tons of food in Hot Springs on Monday! And pictures. Expect pictures.
It's gonna rain tonight but I don't even care.

-Ted
8:05 pm 4/3/2015

Day 21 - Mount Crammerer

Woohoo! And yay I have service! 

I'm here atop Mount Cammerer, 5000 feet for the last time until New Hampshire. It's funny, there were many times in the Smokies where, if you asked me how I was feeling, I would have said "not too good." But, looking back, those moments were not that bad, and the good certainly outweighed the bad, and even the bad times were important learning opportunities. What was good was the terrain. The Smokies are absolutely unbelievable. Not only are the mountains huge, affording the best views I've seen on the trail so far, but the ground-level experience is so unique to any other land I've been in. Sometimes, near the top of a mountain, there is nearly no underbrush; it's either grass or huge trees. It feels like a park, or someone's manicured backyard! Other points, particularly around Clingman's Dome, were the densest, greenest, darkest pieces of trail I've been on. It was like hiking at night. Then there was the weather. My first 3 days in the park, as well as today, were very nice, with warm-enough temperatures and clear skies. Man, the views were (and are) amazing on days like this! Yesterday it didn't rain very much, but it was windy and I hiked in a cloud all day. Despite the "bad" weather, it turned out to be a very enjoyable day. Points like Charlie's Bunion, a rock outcropping, I had looked forward to all week for their fantastic views, were just as impressive in the clouds. I found the force of the wind and the stark whiteness that surrounded me very powerful.

I also hiked with some fantastic people. Some were fellow thru-hikers, like Uphill and his friend Purple Blaze (who thru-hiked last year and was just sectioning). Purple Blaze gave me some super helpful tips for the future (including to walk the extra half mile here). Some were section hikers, like Payday. Payday told me the story of April 2 1987, when he was trapped at a shelter for a week because 5 feet of snow had fallen in the park! And some were day hikers, like Ed and Nick, who were kind enough to give me a banana just now. Anyway the good definitely outweighs the bad, the bad being Wednesday afternoon and evening. I had just finished Clingman's Dome, and it was only 2:30 so I thought it'd be a good idea to push on to Newfound Gap, which I mistakenly read as 6 miles. At the 3.5 mile mark, I realized the gap was actually 8 miles from Clingman's. Unwisely, I pushed on, stopping only once to take a break, eating no food, and probably drinking too little water. When I got to the gap at 6, I was kind of out of it and gratefully recieved the bountiful trail magic being offered there. I ate 2 snickers bars, a bag of potato chips, a bag of Cheetos, 8 double stuff oreos, a pack of Nutter Butter, and sour patch kids in about 15 minutes, then I followed that up with a Knorr dinner. To put it simply, my stomach did not agree the 2000 or so calories suddenly dumped on it. 

It was not a fun night, but I learned that I need to hike responsibly. Frequent stops for water, slowing the pace when tired, and knowing when to stop for the day are very important. I don't want another night like that one. Yesterday I took it easy and I've since returned myself to health. Now, on to Davenport Gap. Goodbye Great Smoky Mountain National Park!

-Ted
1:20 p.m. 4/3/2015

Day 21 Photos Here! : http://tedatgwlt.blogspot.com/p/day-21-403.html

Ted Reports - Smoky Mountain NP

We haven't had a report from Ted for a while, but you should know that this was anticipated.

Ted texts in his posts, and when he gets to a major town he uploads his pictures to Dropbox, where we download them, and link them to his daily travels.

The Smoky Mountain National Park is a natural area described as "backcountry," so they don't sprinkle cell towers out there! And the number of public libraries and internet stations is similarly limited out there!

A notice on the NPS Website for the Smoky Mountains states:

Do not rely on technology to save you. Cell phones do not work most places in the backcountry and GPS is sometimes unreliable. Always carry a Great Smoky Mountains National Park Backcountry Trail map or other reliable map of the park's backcountry with you. It is your responsibility to plan and execute a safe trip for you and your group. Help is often many miles away and may take days to get to you.

Just as soon as Ted comes back into range, or his batteries get recharged if that is an issue, we will be able to get an update on where he is. Be patient and know that his not reporting in is not a cause for concern.

Ted's Trek Gets Some Press

Today the Worcester Telegram & Gazette ran a 2 page story on Ted's AT hike, his Clark University LEEP project with GWLT, and this blog that tracks his progress. Thank you T&G & Way to go Ted!

For those of you who didn't get to see it you can find it here:
http://www.telegram.com/article/20150401/NEWS/304019989/1312

Please note that if you would like to have updates from Ted's trek forwarded to you there is a place to set up an email notification on the right side bar.